When Tarsillo Nataloni, the Italian ECO (Engineer- Chef-Owner) of Flavors Restaurant agreed to offer his popular Italian cuisine restaurant in Defence Colony for a wine evening of the Delhi Wine Club, he didn't realise he would have to shift gears and pronto.
The popular all-time café would need to be converted into a casual fine dining restaurant. And he realised that the members could be more critical and analytical than the Academia Italiana della Cucina ( koo-cheena ), whose members worldwide not only rate the Italian food & wine, but also measure the quality of service.
But he got into the top gear swiftly. New glasses were ordered. Outfits with gloves, a specially printed Menu with special and never ending dishes.; in fact any tips in his secret book were pulled out. Perhaps, the flooring of the newly expanded section was also refurbished.
His one promise was that the people would go home happy and happy they were when they left after the 5-course meal. Before we give him the credit, let us say that he influenced their mood by serving wines at a speed faster than the glasses were emptied or the whites could be chilled enough.
The aperitif Borgo de Vasallo Tocai Friulano 20004 was the perfect wine for starting the evening even though it could have been more chilled. as a matter of policy and prudence we don't comment on the glasses anymore-unless they are of right specification in which case we also publish their picture on the gallery too.
Serving temp for an aperitif wine like this should always be under 10° C no matter where and at what time of the evening or year or what part of the world they are being served. But it had ample citrus flavours, minerally flavour, dry, fruity, fresh and citric flavour with a simple end as expected (Rating 3.5)
The finger snacks were excellent. The Quiches were flavourful and not oily. We had gladly convinced him earlier to cut down on the variety lest members accused him of converting it to a quiche and wine evening. The rice balls were simply excellent for those who picked up the pieces hot.
Mini pizzas were a disappointment though-perhaps a victim of the quantity. Rakesh Talwar observed 'most of the young regulars devouring different pizzas with wine'. But crispiness and flavour were lacking in the mini pizzas. Nataloni's team missed out on showcasing his signature dish.
The second wine, the Pinot Grigio was not as impressive. The generally popular Italian varietal was slightly flat, dull-and boring, though fruity and quaffable. (Rating 2.5)
But it was a good match for the Caesar salad and the cold potato soup which tasted better with Tabasco , which interfered with the wine match. Of course the recipe was kept a secret till the next course was served.
Flavors does not go wrong in its ravioli-this day was not exceptional. Risotto however was disappointing. It was overcooked, even for an Indian palate and the aromas had disappeared in the kitchen only. The gnocchi, however more than made up for it. It was simply delicious. In wine parlance, people went even for a third refill.
Chardonnay was a perfect pairing and us went very well with most people. It was unoaked and pure with apple aromas, pleasant and with full mouthfeel and a decent after-taste. The fresh acidity balance the slight fruity sweetness. (Rating 3.5)
What was perfect with Risotto and also pasta and even gnocchi was the Chianti Riserva 2001. Spicy aromas, rounded tannins, berry flavours with spices lurking in the background, persistent taste in the mouth, it was a 'man for all seasons' type of wine and enhanced the food flavours. (Rating 4.0).
Just about when people were ready for the dessert, walked in the main dish, the chicken/lamb/veg. roulade. An excellent dish that matched perfectly with the Roccato 2000 Super Tuscan. Lamb eaters were happier as it was a bit too tannic for chicken. An hour in the decanter would have tamed it and made it more approachable. But nonetheless, an excellent Super Tuscan, perfect for several red meat dishes, chicken in red wine sauces and even the aubergine dish. (Rating 4.0)
The chocolate cake was a winner, delicious when hot. ( A Spanish sweet cabernet would have been a great match- but the coffee is always good from Nataloni, with or without the biscotti served.)
The club recognises Kiara Wines of Mumbai for sponsoring the wines (alas, not the customs duty, excise duty and VAT). He has a good collection of Italian wines and we hope to see them on the restaurants' wine lists soon.
While things can always be improved, it was an enjoyable evening for members who had been kept busy with food, wine and chat and did not notice that the room was the new addition to the fast growing restaurant and had earlier been a Thai restaurant.
David Brinksman, our newer and younger member (relatively speaking) was the discovery of the event. We need to use him to thank the chefs and the waiting staff before the event rather than at the end, to make sure they give their best foot forward, just like the Chef in Nataloni had on his wish list.
