It is interesting to see that Cheval Blanc was served twice to throw the tasters off balance and judge their consistency. Besides, Pingus from Ribera del Duoro, Spain was added as a ringer with the same objective.
Only one of the First Growths made it to top ten. Although the Grand Cru A Classe Ausone made the cut at 8 th spot, Cheval Blanc didn't, even though it had two chances as two same wines were served. Petrus, the most famous wine was not even in the top twenty, giving rise to the argument that some of the Bordeaux wines may not reach their best even in 11 years whereas the Californian counterparts are made to mature younger.
The most popular Californian Cult, Screaming Eagle must scream foul. The US$ 3000 a bottle wine was almost the last in the list followed only by another Cult, Harlan Estate (a US $900 wine) and Diamond Creek which costs a comparatively measly sum of US $125.
A relatively unknown Medoc Cru Bourgeois offering from Rollan de By, costing peanuts (US $25) made it to a respectable 24 th spot. Some evidence of the expensive wines not necessarily being the best! Besides, it underlines the importance of the supply-demand theory where too many people chasing too few goods may result in astronomical prices. And talking of the same theory, the prices of several low priced wines in the top twenty are bound to go up drastically.
Apart from Rolland de By, Beringer (US $90), La Jota (US $90), Le Bon Pasteur (US $70) with whom the legendry Michel Rolland of Grover Vineyard fame (!) is involved, Haut Candissas (US$ 90) and Spring Mountain (US $90) offer good options for drinking great wines but with, not necessarily, a ‘brand' behind them.
Chateau Haut Brion selling for an average of US $430 is at a lowly 34 th position with its younger sibling and neighbour, the 2nd Growth La Mission haut Brion right behind. Costing a third (US $150), it may be as good an option but at a great price.
The results also point out how a pure blind tasting can be very tricky business where even professionals can find it a tough track to tread and can be thrown off balance. It also brings out the' brand' factor and the consequent ‘brag' factor. There is potentially a big market for wines with high brag factor in India . Potentially, because when the wine drinking gains momentum, there will be a cult ready to scream an order of Screaming Eagle in a restaurant, more to make a statement than to enjoy or understand the wine.
The' Judgment of Sauternes Tasting' amply demonstrates that the Californians are scaling new highs in the premium wines and trying to snatch the top quality honours reserved exclusively for Bordeaux wines in the past. It also demonstrates, once again, that the people (tasters included) prefer complexities in wine at a much younger age. It will be interesting to see if the results are consistent next year.
After all, the vintage does play the role in marking quality and the results might be different for different vintages.
Subhash Arora