California beats Bordeaux…again

Judgment of Sauternes: A semi blind tasting was held at Château Guirard in Sauternes earlier this month to determine which of the two regions still rules supreme. 20 wines each of the same vintage, 1995 were tasted blind by a panel of judges from Europe and outside. Here is my analysis… Subhash Arora

Subhash Arora Californian wines have again beaten their French cousins in a semi blind tasting organized by the Grand Jury European (GJE) at Ch. Guirard in Sauternes. GJE is a collective group of wine experts with a permanent panel of judges. It was founded in 1996 by Francois Mauss, who was so peeved at seeing Robert Parker's scores displayed in Paris wine shops that he decided to set up a group of European panelists who would have a say in what Europeans buy.

The Judgment of Sauternes is the first edition of such comparative tastings, to be carried annually. The primary aim of his event was to ‘right the wrongs of Steven Spurrier's recent Re-Judgment of Paris'. The founder Chairman Mauss was unhappy with his recreation of the Judgment of Paris tasting in May this year, celebrating 30 years of the original tasting. He claims that dual locations and an unfair selection of vintages and tasters gave erroneous results. Vintage 1996 is selected for next year for this semi blind tasting. The tasters knew which wines were being tasted but each one had a blind and random sequence to taste. The tasting had to finish in 2 hours.

In the famous blind tasting of Paris conducted by Steven Spurrier in 1976, Stag's Leap '73 Cabernet and Ch. Montelena '73 Chardonnay had created history when they beat their top French equivalents in the blind tasting.

At this month's tasting all wines were from the 1995 vintage- rated as excellent for California and very good for Bordeaux. It was selected so one would not raise fingers at picking unfair and non comparable vintage. This would also neutralize the advantages that younger wines had in the historical tasting of 1976, since Californian counterparts are supposedly drinkable much earlier.

GJE invited experts from all over the world, including France, USA, Italy, Spain and UK. Jurors included regular GJE members like Joel Payne (an American settled in Germany ) who is the co-author of the German Wine Guide and Managing Editor of Wine Business International, and guests like Jeff Leve, Robert Parker's colleague.

Of the top five producers awarded, the first three turned out to be Californians. The winner, Abreu of Montelena Ranch was followed by Beringer and Pahlmeyer, all from Napa. In fact, all but 2 of the 20 Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot wines selected from Napa Valley, showing the monolithic stature it has acquired during the last 30 years. Chateau Valandraud, the Grand Cru producer from St. Emilion was at number four, with Chateau Latour right behind.

Scores awarded by the GJE jury were even more in favour of the Californians. Only two of the top ten wines from Bordeaux made the cut with Trotanoy (joint 6) and Chateau Palmer at ninth spot. None of the First Growths, Gran Cru A producers of St. Emilion or the world famous and supposedly the most expensive wine, Petrus ( with our apology to the Screaming Eagle!) shared the top Honours.

Here are our analyses of the results. I have taken the prices in US $s from my favourite site www.wine-searcher.com. I have removed the extremes to define the price range. They are indicative only as some are without taxes whereas others may include taxes. However, we are interested in the average price for comparisons.

  RESULTS        
           
  WINE CALIFORNIA : BORDEAUX
REGION
PRICE RANGE
AVG. PR.
           
1 Abreu (Madrona Ranch) California
Napa Valley
300-450 350
1 Beringer Private Reserve California Napa Valley 65-140 90
3 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red California Napa Valley 140-180 160
3 Valandraud
Bordeaux
St. Emilion 225-700 450
5 Latour
Bordeaux
Pauillac 1st Gr. 350-520 420
5 Shafer Hillside Select California Napa Valley 308-480 400
7 Arrowood Special Reserve California Sonoma 120-160 140
7 Ausone
Bordeaux
St Emilion G.CruA 290-495 420
9 Leoville Les Cases
Bordeaux
St Julien-2 nd Gr. 111-240 170
9 Phelps Insignia California Napa Valley 160-250 185
11 Mouton Rothschild
Bordeaux
Pauillac 1 st Gr. 225-480 380
12 Mondavi Reserve California Napa Valley 102-220 175
13 Cheval Blanc
Bordeaux
St.Emilion G.CruA 220-480 400
14 Palmer
Bordeaux
Margaux 3 rd Gr. 110-220 150
15 Staglin Family Vineyard Cab California Rutherford, Napa 115-170 140
16 Trotanoy
Bordeaux
Pomerol 140-245 200
17 Araujo California Napa Valley 325-495 390
18 La Jota Anniversary Reserve California Howell Mt. Napa 80 -100 90
18 Le Bon Pasteur
Bordeaux
Pomerol 50-85 70
20 Pride Reserve California Napa Valley 300-345 320
21 Haut Condissas
Bordeaux
Haut Medoc 90 90
22 Spring Mountain California   80-145 90
23 Petrus
Bordeaux
Pomerol 1000-1700 1300
23 Rollan de By
Bordeaux
Medoc Cru Bour 20-30 25
25 Chateau Montelena California Napa Valley 115-155 140
26 Lafite- Rothschild
Bordeaux
Pauillac 245-315 190
27 Ridge, Monte Bello California Ridge Vin.Napa 95-155 135
28 Cheval Blanc*
Bordeaux
St.Emilion G.CruA 220-480 400
29 Dominus Prop. Blend California Moueix Est.Napa 125-210 150
30 Colgin (Herb Lamb Vin.) California Napa Valley 600-950 800
31 Margaux
Bordeaux
Margaux 310-530 480
32. Spottswoode California Napa Valley 88-125 90
33. Le Tertre Roteboeuf
Bordeaux
St. Emilion Gr.CruA 130-200 170
34. Haut Brion
Bordeaux
Pessac 300-520 430
35. La Mission Haut Brion
Bordeaux
Pessac Leognan, 2 nd Gr. 110-170 150
36. Croix de Labrie
Bordeaux
St. Emilion Gr.Cru 115-200 160
37. Screaming Eagle California Napa Valley 2400-3600 3000
38. Harlan Estate California Napa Valley 650-1000 900
39. Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill California Napa Valley 125-130 125
40. Pingus, Spain-not rated        
20: 19

 

 

 

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