Most Indians when asked
about Zinfandel (also called Primitivo, Zin, Crljenak Kaštelanski
and used to make full bodied red, sweet-white, rose and
port type etc.) raise their opinion in a chorus: “
Off course it is a Californian wine that goes well with
Indian food.” Say anymore and they get – truly
– lost in the mystery of the wine. So, let the truth
be told. Is it really true that Zinfandel goes well with
Indian food? Is it also true that it is a Californian wine?
As more and more Indians are ceaselessly
pairing Zinfandel with Indian food, I think it is about
time we know more about a wine that the neo-connoisseurs
swear by, but the oldies show distaste against, swaying
a casual hand and calling it too sweet, excessively fruity
and overwhelmingly spicy. One expert recently told me, “Zinfandel
is not for the savants and the straight jacketed of the
society. It is too blatant, almost with no mystery and doesn’t
have any subtle flavours to imagine. In other words, he
added, the wine is ‘too frank’. Far too frank
than most would like to associate with.” I was foxed.
I think it is exactly due to this reason
the young have found fascination for Zinfandel. One, they
do not have too much time to imagine flavours, taste, smell…Two,
they have got used to the new world (the true world of today,
that is) which is too straight – with practically
no time to bide. Further its being too frank, without pretences
and volatile also doesn’t help. Three, they are completely
at loss when each time they do try to understand the wines
the oldies care to speak fondly of, they are bombarded with
so much of detailing, procedure, method etc. So seeing the
ridicule for Zinfandel, they behave possessed by the rebellion
the unripe age naturally pits them against. And like all
youngsters they love ridiculing the accepted norms and traditions.
So, let me conclude for you my friends: Zinfandel is a young
wine. Better still, it is a wine for youngsters.
For the statistics and a bit of history
– Zinfandel is the second largest growing variety
of Vitis Vinifera in California. Most of the vineyards
are located in Napa valley. The wine draws its rich character
from the sweet smell of fruits and richness of weather that
one feels during each visit to the valley. But before we
give the complete credit to California, let me burst the
first myth: the country of its origin. The country of its
origin is Croatia. Surprised? Yes, closer home, this sweet
and bold wine was first made several centuries ago.
Let me now come to the crucial question
of pairing. Says Ray Johnson, Assistant Director of the
San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, “if you’re
a die-hard red wine drinker, however, we have found some
workable pairings with spicy cuisine. Best bets are California
Zinfandel, Australian Grenache, and Shiraz from either country,
where the wine is ripe and jammy, almost a sweet expression
of fruit, while at the same time, low in tannin and not
burning with the taste of alcohol. These wines can really
complement spicy meat dishes.”
So, as far as we Indian are concerned
it goes well with our theme of spicy food. Try it with spicy
seekh kebabs or momos (dimsums) as a starter. And for the
main course pair it with mirchi ka salan, Degchi chicken
and roomali rotis. And for the final course, one can consider
giving a chocolate based pudding a passé and instead
have it with warm gulab jamun or phirni. For others there
is handi biryani, bharta baigan and rotis.
To sum up, the spicy flavours, mostly pepper,
along with strong fruit, is too bold to capture the moods
of the wandering old minds. It is just too matter of fact;
as are the young. And that is where the fun and the competition
lies.
Kulpreet Yadav, an international author
and a connoisseur of wine, blogs at www.indian-wine.blogspot.com
and www.anindianfiction.blogspot.com
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