With Indians looking at organic food with a lot of interest these days, it is natural to assume that wines would not be left behind. Kulpreet Yadav did considerable research on the organic wines and similar green concepts and reports his findings.
Wine is a natural produce made from grapes. Considering the fact that the soil, air and water of the place the grapes are grown in, or the terroir as it is called, cast an important shadow under which the juice is fermented to become wine, it is only natural for the wine growers to go green. While going green is natural, Green-washing isn't. For Green washing is a term that refers to a company's overstating an environmental benefit purely for marketing purposes.
With Indians too looking at organic foods with a lot of interest these days (many superstores have even dedicated 'organic foods' section now) can the wines be left behind? To find out the answers I embarked on a research that took good part of a month of my time. In hindsight, I think the effort was worth it.
Before I discuss organic wines and their relevance in India in the immediate future, first let us ready ourselves for some important questions that instantly impress upon us as the necessity of such an Indian context.
Is it true that organic whines do not cause hangover?
Is it possible not to use Sulphites while bottling?
Are white wines less organic than the red ones?
Can the use of eggs, milk and fish etc be avoided during the fining process, resulting in wines for vegetarians?
Why are wines going green
One, it gets picked up by the discerning modern customers far too easily. Two, it helps the buyer consolidate the belief of the wine maker. And three, it obviously helps the environment. Decades ago, when farmers realized that by adding chemicals in the form of fertilizers and pesticides, their produce will increase manifold, they had no clue that they were, in fact, killing the goose that was laying the golden eggs for them.
Nearly three decades ago when the wine makers woke up to this fact that they are not only causing irreparable damage to the environment (polluting water table, causing soil erosion, adding to the CO2 output etc.) but their yield is also going down, it got many of them thinking. The 'pool-table' resembling vineyards suddenly started looking dangerous and not-so-soothing for the senses anymore. Conventional farming therefore once again became the obvious thing to do. Monoculture of grapes addicted to chemicals, pesticides and fertilizers started getting increasingly replaced by one of the three methods – 'organic', 'sustainable' or 'biodynamic' farming.
Organic wines
According to NOP (National Organic Programme) of the USDA an organic wine is the one which is made with organically grown grapes, but without any added sulphites. Less than 100 ppm sulphites are allowed as these can be naturally present and find their way into the finished wines. Now, sulphites (Sulphur salts or Sulphur dioxide) due to its anti-microbial qualities (also, antioxidant) becomes bound up by joining potential spoilage. These compounds, without sulphites, would otherwise result in undesirable aromas, flavours or colours, making the wine totally unpalatable.
Organic farmers pay attention to three aspects – use of yeasts, filtration / fining method and the use of minimal sulphites. Yeasts are naturally present on the grapes and since the organic farmer had not used chemicals in the first place, the grapes can be used directly for fermentation. Fining is usually achieved by using proteins derived from animal products such as milk, eggs, fish etc.
Is it possible at all to do away with animal proteins? Yes, it is... Organic farmer sometimes can even use different types of clay making the wines also vegetarian. Sulphites are absolutely necessary as without it the wines are unstable as naturally present sulphites have negligible potency. Since red wines ferments with the skin and the pips, it gets blessed by the preservative power of the tannins which in turn allows the organic farmer to use minimum sulphites. It is precisely due to this reason that the white wines require more Sulphites than the red ones.
Are Sulphites really the problem
Not many wine drinkers are aware that dried apricots can contain up to 2000-3000 ppm of Sulphite levels. So, why is the fuss over the 100 ppm benchmark? The answer is easy. Organic marketing has convinced the people, beyond doubt, that Sulphites are the real cause for hangover in the morning. Though the claim is largely true as the volume of wine drunk is many times more than, say apricots, it is not entirely true that only organic wines can be hangover free. Wines made from 100% organic grapes or at least 75% organically grown grapes (see label carefully, next time!) with low Sulphites can also yield the same result.
Sustainable farming
Many see the certification procedures connected with producing organic wines simply too overwhelming. The level of risk in terms of reduced yield keeps them wary of the adventure. But still, aware of the harmful effects of chemicals on the environment, they are eager to help the cause. These restrict the use of chemicals to the minimum and concentrate on water management in the vineyard, manage the eco-system, maintain good air and water quality use energy efficient techniques and even reduce solid waste in their vineyards.
Biodynamic farming
A rather curious method of farming and philosophy, Biodynamic farming was pioneered by an Austrian, Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. Though organic in visibility and method, it combines a spiritual philosophy and some astrological considerations. Weird it may sound but one of the nine preparations prescribed by Steiner aims at improving the soil's fertilization by filling a cow horn with cow manure and burying it in the ground in autumn. Decomposed over winter, it is recovered during spring and washed all over the field with the spring water. The method is popular in at least 50 countries and there are close to 500 Biodynamic producers in the world.
A few other environment champions …
Labels such as 'FFF' (Fish Friendly Farming) and 'Salmon Safe' are common in the United States and should not confuse you. These are third party certifications and represent the commitment of wine grower's association who champions the cause of environment and are eager to ensure that biodiversity of habitat remains intact – so that a glass of wine finds a non-contaminated food portion on the table to eat with. By the way, Salmon Safe is not a wine that pairs well with Salmon fish as some think.
The Indian Context
In India we have neither an equivalent of NOP nor any third party certifications by voluntary groups like in other countries. Worse, we don't even have a regulation enforcing the mention of Sulphites levels on the labels of wine bottles. In short, we have far from awoken to the fact that the wines which we fondly consume might actually not only be poisoning our bodies but also doing an irreparable harm to the environment. It is time we catch up with the rest of the world. And whenever we do, let us stay away from the 'greenwashed wines' and instead go for genuine 'green' wines.
But there is a silver lining and hope is there for those willing to see it. Ministry of Food Processing Industries of the Government of India set up a National Wine Board (NWB) in August last year in Pune with an ad-hoc committee to govern its working. Intimating about the decision the Secretary, Ministry of Food Processing and Industries had reportedly said, "The wine industry in the country is growing at a rate of 25 to 30 per cent. However, per capita consumption of wine in India is low compared to other Asian and European nations. The wine sector in India requires a platform for consolidation of efforts and to develop the sector in an integrated manner. The National Wine Board will accomplish this purpose".
Headed by Sham Chougule the, the Chairman of Chateau Indage, one of the oldest wine makers of the country, and members drawn from the Indian wine makers, it hopefully will soon be able to skim deep enough to realize the environment considerations. Until then, let us all spread awareness in whichever way we can.
 Kulpreet Yadav, an international author and a connoisseur of wine, blogs at www.indian-wine.blogspot.com and www.anindianfiction.blogspot.com
For further study on the subject, delWine brings to you the following websites courtesy Beverley Banning's book 'Choosing the Right Wine' which was reviewed in the previous issue of delWine-editor
www.soilassociation.org, www.organicwinejournal.com for Organic farming
www.demeter.net, www.biodynamy.com/ and www.biodynamics.com for Biodynamical farming.
www.sustainablewinegrowing.org, www.tilth.org , www.liveinc.org, www.ipw.co.za, www.nasaa.com.au and www.nzwine.com/swnz for Sustainable winegrowing
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