Tips on buying fine Bordeaux
In the previous article, inspired by Decanter ‘elevating' one of the Super second chateaux to the Premier Cr status, I had written about a few Super Seconds that offered excellent affordable Bordeaux wines. In this article, I explore a few other ‘Seconds' that can give a Bordeaux wine lover watching his pocket as well, a great value – Subhash Arora

 We have observed from price comparisons of 2000 and 2003 vintages with the 1er Cru Classe` chateaux that the Super Seconds like Cos d'Estournel, Chateau Pichon Lalande, Ch Pichon Lalande Comtesse can be great buys for fine wines. Some of the other recommended Chateaux are (prices in US $ for 2000/2003 harvests):

Ch. Le'oville Barton (40/65)

Ch Lascombes (35/35)

Ch Brane- Cantenac (27/32)

Ch Ducru Beaucaillou (75/95)

Ch Montrose (33/35)

Ch Palmer is perhaps the only 3rd growth chateau which qualifies for a super buy even though its price is higher (140/110) as it makes consistently excellent wines comparable to the premier crus.

Every 1er growth chateau selects only the best wine for bottling and sale under the main label. They have introduced a second label which is wine from younger vines and made in less than perfect vats. In some tough years they may downgrade half or more of their production to these labels. These wines may never reach the complexity, elegance and finesse after years of maturity as their seniors. Nevertheless, they can be drunk younger and don't cost the earth. Unlike their more-celebrity wines, these are not matured in 100% fresh oak and are also aged for a shorter period in them. Here are a few examples:

Lafite: Carraudes de Lafite (50/45)

Latour: Les Fortes de Latour (75/55)

Mouton: Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild (N.A.)

Margaux: Pavillon Rouge de Ch Margaux (68/65)

Haut Brion: La Bahans de Ch Haut Brion (40/40)

I may add that the Super seconds too have second wines and are worth considering if your purse strings are tightly controlled by your spouse and your tastes are still first-class. E.g. Cos d'Estournel has Les Pagodes de Cos, Pichon has Les Tourelles de Longueville, Comtesse has Re'serve td la Comtesse, Brane-Cantenac has Ch Notton. Priced usually at under $ 35 they are great buys for Bordeaux admirers.

The list is not comprehensive and gives you only an analysis to help you decide how to pick up value-for-money Bordeaux wines. There are often other regions and countries that produce excellent value for money wines of this style. Mas de Daumas Gassac is one such producer in the Languedoc region. Their Vin de Pays de l'Herault is considered comparable to Lafite and Latour. Incidentally, this company had participated in the first IFOWS food and wine show in Delhi in 2002 but did not pursue the market after the show (40/35).

Then there are producers who are collaborating with the 1er Cru chateaux and making world class Bordeaux blends. Opus one in Napa Valley, a JV between Mouton and Robert Mondavi (who recently sold off their share) makes excellent Cabernet dominated blend and is available for US $ 150.

It may also not be out of place to talk of Super Tuscan wines of which I shall talk in details in a future article, making Bordeaux blends successfully and at lower costs. Sassicaia is the most famous wine label costing generally &125 and up and produced in Bolgheri, the Maremma coastal region, western part of Tuscany. Their second wine Guidoalberto costs about US $ 55 and not many can tell the difference between the two labels.

Another reason why the Super seconds, their second labels and the second wines of the first growth chateaux are of great relevance to us in India is that due to lack of proper cellaring or the knowledge thereof, we need not wait for 10-15 or 20 years to enjoy these fine wines. Wine category that I have recommended here can be drunk 4-7 years after the harvest and can be aged for yet another 3-10 years but they are more easily approachable when young and don't burn a big hole in the pocket.

So next time you travel abroad or when you have the possibility of stashing away a case of two with your friends or relatives in their wine cellar there, you know what to look for.

Subhash Arora