Ribera, Rueda and Rioja

If Ribera, Rueda and Rioja sound Spanish to you, you are right. In fact, they refer to three important wine producing areas of Spain, quite close to each other.

Subhash AroraRueda is in the North West Spain. Verdejo is the king grape in this region, world-known for its white wines. In fact, this is the only region in Spain where it is cultivated. Viura (known as Macabeo- one of the three Cava producing indigenous grapes), Sauvignon Blanc and Palomino (Sherry grape) are the other varieties. Ribera del Duero is known for some of the best Spanish reds using Tempranillo grape, also known locally as Tinto Fino and Tinta del País. Names of two of their Superstars, Bodega Vega Sicilia and Domenio de Pingus immediately ring the bell.

My memories of Rioja came alive when I attended the tasting of wines from Valladolid (pronounced as ba-yya-though-lid, d being soft) organized by the Spanish Embassy and the Chamber of Commerce (Cámara Oficial de Comercio e Industria) of Valladolid at Nandiya Gardens, Maurya Sheraton. Nine wineries brought their wines and personnel to give us a taste of wines from Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Cigales and Toro Appellations, surrounding the city of Valladolid. Amongst this region surrounding river Duero, you find some of the best wines Spain has to offer.

Tempranillo is the common grape used for reds in these regions- in fact it is the widest planted red grape in Spain and is used in other areas as well. Viura is the major grape for white wines of Rioja, though it plays a supporting role in Rueda and Ribera. So the comparison was unavoidable.

I had visited Rioja last May, when I had gone to the capital city Logroño to attend ‘Grandes de La Rioja 2006' where the participants had tasted over 200 wines of La Rioja. Rioja produces some of the best known Spanish red wines. Unfortunately I had found a majority of their wines a bit too acidic and the alcohol level often exceeding 14% or even 14.5%. The initial acid attack would not find favour with the Indian palate. Undoubtedly some of the wines were outstanding, though expensive; Cirsion from Bodega Roda is an amazing wine but costs 124 Euros. Several others had balanced acidity. The Riojans also use too much oak for aging, a practice which may reduce the freshness and fruit while making it complex. Mercifully things are changing in their new style of wine making.

Ribera del Duero (and in fact Cigales and Toro, the other two areas near Valladolid specializing in reds) produce wines of different character. They do not use too much of oak and have a balanced acidity. The alcohol level is also lower, generally less than 14%.

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List of Participating Wineries

Ribera reds and Rueda wines we tasted were quite reasonably priced and should have a lot of potential in our price sensitive market and since they offer unique products. Most of the reds were quaffable to very good quality range. The tannins are softer and well rounded with the prices comparing well with some of the popular reds from France, US and Australia. Rueda's white is fresh, clean and nicely aromatic, with a soft nutty flavour. Their Sauvignon blanc has a different and pleasing personality. Addition of Viura to Verdejo offers a unique and delicious blend which is a refreshing alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chablis.

Here is my selection of a few of VFM, value for money wines:

1. Vina MOCÉN DO Rueda 2005 Bodegas Antaño : Verdejo 50%, Viura 50%. Straw Colour with green reflections. Generous whiff of tropical fruits hits your nose. Very fresh, crisp and harmonious in the mouth. Dry and light bodied simple aperitif wine. A good aperitif wine. ***

(Their Sauvignon Blanc and pure Verdejo tasted better but much higher price differential made me select this over them)

Tierra Buena DO Rueda 2005 Grupo Yllera: Verdejo 50%, Viura 50%. Alc. 13%. Medium Straw yellow colour with shades of green. Delicate, fruity aromas of green apples and peaches. Creamy and oily texture with fruit coating your mouth. Dry, fresh and medium bodied wine with balanced acidity. Makes you want more. ***

Vega Brav`ia Roble 2005 Bodegas Antaño Tempranillo 100% . Alc.13%. Ruby red colour wine. Spending three months in oak has somewhat rounded off the tannins. Quite fruity with black cherry flavours. Easy to quaff VFM (value for money) young wine. ***1/2

 

 

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