German Rieslings have lower alcohol content due to colder climes. 7-9% is the norm rather than 11-14% elsewhere. This makes it a better partner with food than some of the other regional varieties in warmer regions, with higher alcohol levels. Weight watchers may find the lower calories because of lower alcohol level, a welcome feature too.
What many of us may not be aware of is the fact that a good quality Riesling lasts longer in an opened bottle provided it is stored properly. During my recent conversation with Fritz Gunderloch, the visiting winemaker- owner of Gunderloch winery in Rheinhessen, he told me that if stored properly, wine left over from the open bottle can last for three months without really losing its flavour. He should know! His is the only winery in the world that has received 100 points from Wine Spectator thrice. Of course, the latest100- pointer, half- bottle TBA Riesling 2001 that retails for US $ 2000 makes it drinkable only by modern day kings and czars. Dry Kabinetts on the other end of the spectrum make them highly refreshing as aperitifs in Indian summers.
Earlier this month when Fritz visited India for multiple trade tastings, I had an opportunity to put his hypothesis to test. Wines from Dr. Loosen, Mosel winery that has revolutionized wine making concepts and is famous for good quality Rieslings, had been couriered and received after payment of custom duty. On opening the case, a few bottles of one label were found wet. Apparently, wine had leaked out of the stelvin cork, damaged perhaps at the customs office. We chose to taste all these bottles with damaged cork by mixing them randomly with the sealed bottles. No one could find any difference in the flavour though the bottles were exposed to oxygen for over a week. I believe Mr. Hasselbach when he tells me that in a recent blind tasting of Gunderloch wines in the US, the best wine turned out to be a bottle that had been opened and stored for over a month. Imagine the cost savings and increased drinking pleasure for Indian wine drinkers for whom storing away the unfinished bottle and consuming in 3-7 days may be the norm!
While, we are still far away from consuming a half bottle of icewine or TBA or a late harvest wine made from Botrytised grapes , with or as dessert during the course of a meal in one evening, Riesling does give us a fragrant option with lively acidity and gloriously aromatic flavours- from aperitif to the main course, to dessert. How many varietals offer us that luxury?
And the Riesling doesn't have to be from Germany either. Washington State and Clare Valley have also honed their techniques and find it difficult to produce enough Riesling. A crisp welcome awaits the resurrection of the forgotten king of grapes, in India. Hail King Riesling!
Subhash Arora |
