Don’t Cry for Argentina

Recently, I met a lady journalist from Argentina, who has settled with her Indian born husband in the USA. She has a burning passion for Argentine wines and wants some of it to rub off on Indian wine lovers.

When I told her how the Chilean wines had made a mark in the US, UK and now also in India, her outburst was not unexpected. ‘My blood boils when people in Miami tell me that Chilean wines are more popular. I cry when I am told in India it is the same story', she cried. ‘Our wines are definitely better than theirs. Chileans are more marketing savvy and we have perhaps not paid much attention in this area.'

Argentina has plenty up its sleeve but has been slow in unbuttoning its cuffs.

Unlike this major wine consumption country (in 1979, there per capita consumption at 96 liters was the highest in the world), Chile has not been an avid drinking nation. Though in recent years the drinking habits have seen a reversal, it still consumes only 16 liters pr capita compared to the severely reduced 34 liters for Argentina. Due to its low domestic consumption Chile was obliged to look outward into the export markets when the political climate stabilized in the early eighties.

Technology savvy Chile helped by Miguel Torres entry in the country in early seventies (read the Interview with H.E. Jorge Heine) had also helped them in improving their quality, a concept which they got the handle on much earlier than their Eastern neighbour. Argentina did follow by uprooting a third of their vines with newer international varieties and better quality varietals, the results started coming much later.

In all fairness, the Argentine political instability and economy with runaway inflation of three figures going on to 5000% made it unviable as a steady and reliable exporter  to countries like UK and USA which is presently its biggest importer.

In India, the growth in consumption may have been spurred by the foreign reports but in fact the Chilean wines  did offer a viable alternative to good and expensive French and Italian wines, a universal phenomenon. ProChile and the Embassy of Chile have also been proactive and supportive of their wine trade.

Unknown to fellow Chileans, the Ambassador of Chile, the Suave and wine-smart Jorge Heine (he is fondly addressed as Ambassador of Wine) works  24/7 to promote their wine among other products. His diplomatic efforts to work on the bilateral treaty for wine trade with India   are not as well known as the fact that he would accept any feasible opportunity that will promote wine.

 He worked relentlessly, taking personal interest in the successful conclusion of  the ‘Top Chile' campaign organised by the Indian Wine Academy, where top ten wines from Chile were tasted blind and judged by nine international wine connoisseurs. Recently, he walked in after midnight to a ‘Wine and World cup' evening of the Delhi Wine Club with his charming wife Norma who was in high spirits because only Chilean wines had been selected for the evening, nay, morning. No wonder the sale of Chilean wines in India grew at 120% last year.

This aggressive approach is in built in the whole of Chilean wine industry. As the lady herself had pointed out, Chileans are marketing- savvy. It is extremely important to take part in wine shows for focused tastings. Go to the London Wine Show or Vinexpo and you would be floored by the presence of Chilean wineries.

Argentina has been very iffy about such participation. Unfortunately, it suffered another setback in 2001. However, that did not throw the apple cart and they seem to be determined and focused on their exports efforts. With  production being three times that of Chile, and with Malbec being a star grape doing well on their terroir (especially around Mendoza), and Torrontes- a distant relative  of the Spanish Malvasia, they have an inherent USP. With a third of their population being Italian immigrants, they can claim to produce the best wines outside of Italy from Sangiovese, Barbera and Bonarda grapes.

 

 

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