Kerry Damskey, the master winemaker for Sula, who was in India last week feels that the Sula Vintage 2009 is quite satisfactory though the crop level has gone down slightly this year due to incremental weather, in a chat with Subhash Arora.
 ‘But there is high concentration of fruit flavours and the wines will be more fruit forward,’ he opined. On prodding a bit, he disclosed that the fall in the crop might have been about 10%.’
This was the regular annual visit (he normally visits twice a year) for the winemaker from Sonoma Country who has been advising Sula from ground zero; he has been visiting India once or twice a year, since 1995. ‘I have just come back from Nashik and will be going back to San Francisco tonight.’
What about the usual comment that Nashik wines are generally vegetal and are green? ‘I feel Cabernet has a problem more than the other varieties. What we have done at Sula to combat the problem is focusing on the canopy management. We also harvest the crop at 26º Brix. But you are right-it is a challenge for Cabernets. I have spent a week in Nashik. I have also tasted wines of York and Ch. d’Ori. They are quite focused and I don’t see any problems in their wine.
Class of Whites of 2009
‘Sauvignon Blanc is the most convenient grape to grow in this region. The fruit is concentrated, it has minerally flavour. Chenin on the other hand is slightly light with floral aromas and the proper amount of acidity and a touch of sweetness.’ ‘But the general reaction is that the residual sugar in your wines is still on the high side,’ I wanted to know. ‘We are frankly happy with this style, and have no plans to make the wines less sweet.’
‘What about the Riesling you started crushing last year?’ ‘I think it is quite lemony and spicy. But we made a very small quantity last year. I’d say more work needs to be done on this varietal. But you will hear more of this grape.’
And the sparkling where Sula uses only Thompson seedless grapes? ‘I won’t call them Thompson, let us say they are local grapes,’ he says with a hearty laugh. ‘But it is an honest wine and very refreshing. It has tiny little bubbles and I really think it is a tribute to Nashik. I always carry some bottles for myself when I come here,’ cautioning ,’ of course, they are not meant to age. One should drink them when they are young and fresh.’
The US recession story
‘Like everyone has said, there has not been any significant decline in the wine consumption. People are still drinking the same amount but are trading down. It is more difficult to sell $50 or $60 and more expensive wines. But the demand has gone up for $15 to $25 wines where people are looking for good values.’
And how do the Indian wines or Sula fare in the US? ‘Well since I am a Californian winemaker, people are curious about how we make wine in India. It is still an enigma for people unless they have tasted the Indian wine. I genuinely believe people like Sula are doing well and are getting popular in the niche market. Remember Sula is exporting a limited range-only Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Cab Shiraz only.’
Any change of style or philosophy?
‘Well, I’d say there has been more evolution in reds. We are getting more and more barrels now. In the beginning we did not have enough. Now we use both American and French oak, 40% being new. We keep the wine loner in the barrels-14 months.
And the Satori which started with Chilean Merlot? ‘We are using our own grapes now- actually contract farmed- a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. I think eventually we would steer towards a Bordeaux style of blend for this wine,’ he says.
Are their any new labels planned? ‘We are working on the Grenache Mourvedre blend. I believe the company will make some announcement next month,’ he says.
Age-worthy wines
‘We are also going to bring out a Riserva- but not before the fall.’ How is it going to be different than Dindori? ‘Well, this will be made purely from single vineyard and grape selection. It will be concentrated and aged slightly longer,’ he says.
What price point will it be brought out in the market? ‘I don’t know that. But it will be commensurate with the quality.’
And how long would it sustain or evolve in age, if you took a wild guess. “I think definitely 6-10 years.’
Has it not been difficult to sustain the quality edge on Dindori? ‘No, in fact I think it has improved substantially from the first vintage,’ he says with confidence.
Does he know or has he tasted the Reserva wines of Rivello, which are pretty expensive? ‘Frankly I have not tasted their Reservas.’
Quality will be defining factor
‘The defining factor in terms of wine quality is going to be the quality of the grape-with Sula or anyone else who wants to make quality wine. It will also depend upon how closely one can work with the farmers. At Sula, I know we work very closely with them on a long term basis. This will help in continued progress in quality.’
Kerry and his vineyards
Does he own a winery like some other consultant winemakers do? ‘I don’t own a winery but between me and my wife, we own 25 acres of vines in Napa at 2000 ft and another 6 acres in Sonoma county.’
Kerry lives in Geyserville, 10 minutes from where a ‘foot-here-a-foot-there’ Indo American vintner from Delhi Avtar Singh owns vineyards and a winery. ‘I know him quite well-a great guy.’
Maybe he can carry my greetings for Avtar. ‘Sure I will,’ and we part with the hope of seeing each other during one of his future visits or in Sonoma.
Subhash Arora
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