Anatomy of the UK Government Wine Cellar
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Posted: Tuesday, 29 July 2014 11:26
Anatomy of the UK Government Wine Cellar

July 21: The Brits taught Indians to drink whiskey and gin, but if the 3rd Annual Statement tabled by the Ministry of Foreign and Commonwealth Affairs to the Parliament on the Government Wine Cellar on July 17 is an indicator, David Cameron’s government served 4800 bottles of alcohol in 2013-14, that included 4730 bottles of wine and 9 bottles of whisky, probably served to some Indian government delegation since 7.5 bottles were the national favourite, Johnny Walker Black Label, opines Subhash Arora

Click For Large ViewIt may come as a surprise to a majority of Indians that there a Government Wine Cellar in Lancaster House in Central London, next door to Buckingham Palace. It exists and is managed by the Government Hospitality department since 1922, organizing business hospitality for Ministers and senior officials and their guests from overseas and the UK. A political issue had been raised in 2010 by the Conservative government of the incoming PM David Cameron to shut it down due to the weak economy and a review of the Cellar was carried out. Wisdom prevailed and it was found it would be cheaper to let it continue but with self-funding through the sale of high-value wines bought at low prices while young.

It was also decided to make it a transparent system with an annual Report to be tabled in the Parliament every year, detailing the use of the Wine Cellar, covering consumption, stock purchases, costs, and value for money.

According to the third and latest Annual Statement, The Government Cellar has stocks of 35,632 bottles (about 3000 cases) worth £3.1 m ($5m) at today’s prices but costing under £825,000 only. Over half the wines used were in banquets (receptions) that saw Chilean Concha y Toro Merlot retailed at under $10, being served. Interestingly, much more white wine was used at such receptions (1,758 including sparkling) than the red wines (657). The gradual shift to English wine is obvious with the number of domestic wines shooting up to 48% with 2313 bottles including sparkling wines consumed.

In contrast, wines (and obviously liquor) are not allowed to be served at receptions in India. delWine is a big supporter of the concept of serving Indian wines at State banquets in order to give a boost to the Indian wine industry and bring more respectability to wines, which are considered a taboo in the political circles.

The department of Government Hospitality (GH) that manages the operations is advised on purchasing and management of the stock by an advisory committee, the honourary members of which are four Masters of Wine including Jancis Robinson, and meet about three times a year. This may also come as a shock to many that the advisory committee has no expense budgets.

Government Hospitality provides the hospitality services to all departments across the government, managing about 200-250 events each year. The GH team manages all logistics for business hospitality and supervising an event and service of wines from the cellar.

The Government Wine Cellar is heavy on stocking classified Bordeaux reds, and white Burgundies. Bordeaux classified growths dating back as far as 1955 as well as red and white Burgundy from the early 1960s are the classics. The wines are bought young and left to age in the cellar where they are tasted regularly by advisors and the remarks recorded in the form of Notes. For instance 20 bottles of the second growth Gruaud Larose 1961 from St. Julien, upgraded from A to A1 (top quality) in 1993, have this Note appended:

“Drink Slowly (2/99), Drink Slowly (7/03). Tested again at Committee Lunch on 21/1/95 when it was recorded ‘Super’ Upgrade from A to A1 (1/93). Rich, sweet and delicious. Will remain so for 10-15 years (2/99) Fresh and opulent, wonderful. Drink but no Rush (7/03)”

The Committee members are not paid anything but the perks are plenty as one learns from the above Notes. In fact, Jancis Robinson MW gives a pretty good idea when she reportedly says that the food at the Buckingham Palace with these wines is delicious.

For an earlier related article regarding the Government Wine Cellar in 2010, please visit

UK Government Loves French Wines

The complete List of Wines at the Government Cellar is available at
https://www.gov.uk

Incidentally, the Government Wine Cellar is independent of the Royal Cellar which is a part of the Queen’s Cellar at Buckingham Palace and is managed by a team under the Clerk of Royal Cellars appointed by the Queen. Simon Berry of Berry Bros and Rudd, has been a Clerk of Royal Cellar since 2008. For details and information on this, visit
BBR owner takes charge of Royal Cellars  or read it in a recent interview with Simon Berry at: Star Interview: Full of Berries -Simon Berry

Is any whisky drinking senior Indian government official listening?

Subhash Arora

 

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